Monday, 14 January 2019

Costeno Beach, Colombia

Arriving at Costeno Beach (but staying in Las Brisas Tranquilla) was entering a very different atmosphere than we had been in previously. These hostels are all directly on the beach with many beds to a room or even just crowded hammocks. It has a very relaxed type of party attitude. There is always music playing and people are always drinking but nobody gets wasted or ridiculous. Most of the day people are just laying around drinking on the beach. Costeno Beach Hostal is the most well known and popular one and actually even though we were staying a few properties down we eat there most days. The food was cheap and delicious.
Costeno Beach Hostal
The beaches here are supposedly some of the best beaches for surfing in all of Colombia. It is possible that we just missed the good weather for this entirely but the waves were very very small and basically not worth surfing at all. The swimming here is apparently fine but the riptide still can pull you under pretty easily. I saw a few people wipe out just standing up to their knees but luckily nobody got dragged out at all. I can't imagine the swimming is very enjoyable because the waters are murky with sediment and the beach is quite steep in some places.

Costeno Beach
Besides the fact that I was still quite sick and so stuffed up in my sinuses that I couldn't see through watery eyes or breathe easily at all, I actually had pretty good luck with wildlife at Costeno Beach. The road is built up along the edge of the wetland of the interior and beach. Whiptail lizards littered the road in the brush dumped by the hotels along the road.
Rainbow Whiptail (Cnemidophorus lemniscatus)
The area with hotels is bordered by two rivers. The closest one is to the north and is located near a public parking lot for any locals wanting to visit the beach. There are shacks set up here serving freshly caught and cooked fish.


Costeno Beach
Costeno Beach
The other side was much quieter. There was some sort of settlement but I don't really know if it is a hotel or what but otherwise it was empty and very few people make the long trek down that side of the beach. But this is where the most number of birds is. The area was crawling with shorebirds, herons, egrets, swallows and kingfishers.
Costeno Beach
Costeno Beach
Costeno Beach
The birds were quite active in the mornings and evenings. Along the road and at the rivers were great places to see lots of birds. There was nothing incredibly interesting but still high in numbers.

Blue-winged Teal
Pale-vented Pigeon
Smooth-billed Ani
White-necked Jacobin
Black-necked Stilt
Black-necked Stilt
Black-bellied Plover
Black-bellied Plover
Southern Lapwing
Southern Lapwing
Wattled Jacana
Sanderling
Sanderling

Spotted Sandpiper
Royal Tern
Magnificent Frigatebird
Neotropic Cormorant
Brown Pelican
Great Egret
Great Egret
Snowy Egret
Snowy Egret
Little Blue Heron
Tricoloured Heron
Tricoloured Heron
Green Heron
Green Heron
Black Vulture
Osprey
Ringed Kingfisher
Ringed Kingfisher

Green Kingfisher
Green Kingfisher
Red-crowned Woodpecker
Lineated Woodpecker

Crested Caracara
Yellow-headed Caracara
Yellow-headed Caracara
Orange-chinned Parakeet

Orange-chinned Parakeet
Tropical Kingbird
Yellow-bellied Elaenia
Blue-and-white Swallow
House Wren
House Wren
 Bicoloured Wren
Pale-breasted Thrush
Great-tailed Grackle

In terms of amphibians is was quite lacking but the dry habitat and wet habitats side by side were a haven for reptiles.
Dormilona (Corallus ruschenbergerii)
Dormilona (Corallus ruschenbergerii)
Dormilona (Corallus ruschenbergerii)
Dormilona (Corallus ruschenbergerii)
Dormilona (Corallus ruschenbergerii)
Dormilona (Corallus ruschenbergerii)
 Blunthead Tree Snake (Imantodes cenchoa)
Blunthead Tree Snake (Imantodes cenchoa)
Blunthead Tree Snake (Imantodes cenchoa)
Rainbow Whiptail (Cnemidophorus lemniscatus)
Gold Tegu (Tupinambis teguixin)
Gold Tegu (Tupinambis teguixin)
Spectacled Caiman (Caiman crocodilus)
Spectacled Caiman (Caiman crocodilus)
Asian House Gecko (Hemidactylus frenatus) 
Dusky Giant Ameiva (Ameiva praesignis)

Saturday, 12 January 2019

Tayrona National Park, Colombia

I visited Tayrona National Park twice during my time in the area. One day was spent at the beaches and mainly snorkeling around 'La Piscina'. The other I hiked up to the native village and saw as much of the park as I could cram. Frankly I walked so much that I got blisters despite my lovely hiking boots being extremely comfortable.
Tayrona National Park
Tayrona National Park

Tayrona National Park
My first day in the park started late because of the massive lines to get in the the fact the park doesn't even open its gates until 8am and also shitty. By that I mean I actually got pretty much full force shat on by a Yellow-crowned Night Heron.
Yellow-crowned Night Heron
The crowds flock to the beaches and the trails are busy. The beaches you can't swim at are completely empty but the few where it is safe to swim are packed with people. On a few rocks far away from people there were terns, vultures, kingfishers and grackles.
Royal Tern
Black Vulture
The boardwalk areas on the trail to Arrecifes Beach were great places to see Rainbow Whiptails and Skinks.
Tayrona National Park

Rainbow Whiptail
Monkeys were also really common to see on the trails and these Santa Marta White-fronted Capuchin (Cebus albifrons ssp. malitiosus) and Howler Monkeys were pretty easy to get a good view of. 
Santa Marta White-fronted Capuchin (Cebus albifrons ssp. malitiosus)
The trail up to the village is steep and rocky but very well maintained. It is not an easy trail but it is beautiful. On the afternoon hike we saw pretty much the same things that I had seen at Kankui Hostal and along the river but there were so many geckos climbing over the rocks.
Yellow-headed Gecko

Friday, 11 January 2019

The Piedras River and Casa Kankui in El Zaino, Colombia

It was a long drive from El Dorado to El Zaino (about 5 minutes drive from Tayrona National Park) and walking into the hostel didn't really fit what I had expected. I knew it was along the highway but I expected the property to be a bit set back but this is ON the highway. The pool view is the highway and the highways views the pool.
Kankui Hostal
BUT all of that first impression drastically improved after settling in and over the course of the stay. The breakfast is included and is fantastic with fresh fruit, juice, scrambled eggs and arepas. Our room was river view and really was ON the river with only about 1 m of sand in between. There was air conditioning and TV. We had our own private balcony area with a hammock and chairs.
Piedras River at Kankui Hostal
Piedras River at Kankui Hostal
The river was lovely, crystal clear and cool (but not very deep in dry season) with a rock/sand bottom that was easy to walk in. Stretching my legs after the long drive I walked just a short distance into the river and was surrounded by birds! Hummingbirds, tanagers warblers!! All flitting around these large mimosa shrubs blooming on a sand flat in the river.
Streaked Flycatcher
Blue-gray Tanagers
I walked the river many times in the three days we spent there and I saw many birds including:
Ruddy Ground-dove
Spotted Sandpiper
Crested Caracara
Yellow-headed Caracara
Yellow-headed Caracara
Pale-bellied Hermit
Steely-vented Hummingbird
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird
Snowy Egret
Black Vulture
Turkey Vulture
Ringed Kingfisher
Amazon Kingfisher
Green Kingfisher
Green Kingfisher Male
Green Kingfisher Male
Green Kingfisher Female
Green Kingfisher Female
Red-crowned Woodpecker
Red-crowned Woodpecker
Orange-chinned Parakeet
Blue-headed Parrot
Blue-headed Parrot
Yellow-bellied Elaenia
Yellow-bellied Elaenia
Social Flycatcher
Summer Tanager
Summer Tanager
Tropical Kingbird 
Tropical Kingbird
Southern Rough-winged Swallow
Southern Rough-winged Swallow
Bicoloured Wren
House Wren
Long-billed Gnatwren
Pale-breasted Thrush
Baltimore Oriole
Orange-crowned Oriole
Orange-crowned Oriole
Long-tailed Grackle
Blue-gray Tanager
Crimson-backed Tanager
Crimson-backed Tanager
Palm Tanager
Palm Tanager
Bananaquit
Northern Waterthrush
Yellow Warbler
Prothonotary Warbler
Grayish Saltator
Gray Seedeater

At night the river was loud with Giant Toads and fishing spiders but surprisingly little else. I did surprise an armadillo one night and it very slowly sauntered off in front of me like an old grump.
Giant Toad (Rhinella horribilis)
The highway doesn't have much around it here and the best places to eat are literally across the street at Chayrama or Yuluka EcoHostal. The food and drinks at both are lovely but I am partial to the ecohostal because of the wildlife. The restaurant is set higher up so you have a nice view of the trees and can bird watch while you eat or if you go for a quick walk around you see frogs, skinks and geckos on the property.
Yuluka EcoHostal
Yuluka EcoHostal
Blue-gray Tanager
Cimson-backed Tanager