I must admit I have always been fond of barren habitats where unique species thrive under low competition and high disturbance but the tropics have always fascinated me and I can't help loving them just as much. I have seen other tropical regions of Central America but the Amazon rainforest is definitely unique. The fast flowing river frequently flooding areas, ponds and wetlands so dark and full of tannins you look brown in the water, trees as tall as high buildings and animals so bright they look like jewels or so well camouflaged you had no clue they were even alive.
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| Lake at Sacha Lodge |
SACHA LODGE
I stayed at Sacha Lodge which is located on a small pond/lake pretty far down the Rio Napo. The boat ride is enjoyable and you get a good look at the various industries along the river including sparse towns and predominantly mining stations.Sacha Lodge is very well kept and when I was there it was under construction to make it even better. The food is wonderful and the people are really friendly.
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| Sacha Lodge |
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| Cabins at Sacha Lodge |
The rainforest seamed to come even more alive at night after the intense rain we get during the day. I saw two tri-coloured swamp snakes right off the boardwalk. There were a constant chorus of frogs and toads calling as soon as it got dark. This was of course much louder after rain. Oddly enough it didn't rain at night but did almost every day. I must admit that my identification of these animals is based on a very incomplete field guide to the common reptiles and amphibians of the Amazon.
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| Sharp-nosed Toad (Bufo dapsilis) |
The frogs and toads were fantastic but the most interesting find for me was
definitely the second night when my amazing native guide and now friend
(Shan-shu) found a climbing salamander! I had never expected to see any
salamanders in the amazon since I was under the impression they are
quite unusual and hard to find.
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| Amazon Climbing Salamander (Bolitoglossa altamazonica) |
The species of frog calling did differ based on time of day and between location. The wetter areas by the docks had more toads and smaller frogs calling but up near the butterfly garden had larger arboreal species.
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| Map Treefrog (Hyla geographica) |
Other than treefrogs, my favorite group of frogs is the poison dart frogs. Their small size, bright colours and very interesting behaviors all fascinate me. Shan-shu is again credited for finding my favorite frog that I have seen in the amazon since this little guy could fit on a quarter (with room to spare).
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| Sanguine Poison Frog (Epipedobates zaparo) |
On a walk down the boardwalk one day I stopped in shock and awe and called for the guides to come back since they had walked on ahead looking for birds. The oddest amphibian I have ever seen was floating in shallow water like a leaf. This was MY best find of the entire trip as it turns out and the guides were very impressed. The older guide who was born and raised in the area had only seen one suriname toad before and Shan-shu had never seen on in his life.
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| Utinga Suriname Toad (Pipa snethlageae) |
The most common frogs in the area were crested forest toads, many-striped treefrogs, common polkadot treefrogs, amazonian rain frogs, rocket frogs and rough skinned treefrogs. This is very likely to change based on season and these were easier to find since they were calling in Februrary.
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| Common Polkadot Treefrog (Hyla punctata punctata) |
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| Pale-striped Amason Poision Frog (Epipedobates hahneli) |
The reptiles were't out often due to the rain we had pretty much constantly during the days but the few hours of sunlight we got in a day they all came out for!
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| Yellow Spotted River Turtle (Podocnemis unifilis) |
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| Northern Caiman Lizard (Dracaena guianensis) |
I only found three species of snakes in the 6 days I spent in the Amazon at Sacha Lodge. If I had been fully focused on finding them and if the weather had been a bit sunnier I might have had better luck. But with the rain preventing any diurnal basking snakes from coming out I only found common blunt headed snakes, tricoloured swamp snakes, common cat-eyed snakes and a high woods coral snake.
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| High Wood Coral Sake (Erythrolamprus reginae) |
Despite being very tired from waking up at 4am for birds I made myself go out looking for reptiles and amphibians every night. I was determined to use every oppertunity I could to find new things and wouldn't go to bed without one. I did quite well by myself despite not being confident enough on the trails to go very far without getting lost. It is quite difficult in the jungle at night since everything looks green and similar with very little to mark the way you went.
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| View from the dining area at sunset |
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| Masked Crimson Tanager |
The bird life was incredibly diverse and it was hard to keep up with everything we were seeing. The best birding was at the lookouts. Sacha Lodge has two lookouts the first is a set of three towers linked by bridges. It goes up quite high (36m tall) and gets you above/equal to most of the trees.
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| Walking across the bridges between towers |
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| Pied Puffbird |
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| Female Blue Dacnis |
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| Crested Owls |
It was a lot easier to see birds from the lookouts because of the really dark lighting in the understory. Sacha has extensive trails to get to the lookouts and other interesting
hotspots for birding. Even along the way the guides know exactly where
to find roosting birds that would otherwise never be seen. These crested owls were my personal favorite from the trails.
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| Extensive trails at Sacha Lodge |
The other lookout was by far my favorite though. Built into the tallest species of tree that grows in the amazon, the Kapora Tree, it was definitely over 40m tall. The climb was worth it though! The birds literally land in the lookout and you can see so far around you.
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| Cream-coloured Woodpecker |
These are some examples of the birds that were in the tree with me. In addition to the ones pictured, many trogons, euphonias, flycatchers and a bare-necked fruit crow all landed in the tree while we were there.
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| Long-billed Woodcreeper |
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| Golden-collared Toucanet |
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| Plum-throated Cotinga |
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| Yellow-browed Tody Flycatcher |
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| At the top of the treehouse tower |
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| Rufous-green Kingfisher |
YASUNI NATIONAL PARK
The guides from Sacha can take you into Yasuni National Park for an aditional fee if you request it. This is a good chance to see some really good parrot licks. The one on the river that everyone gets to see is shaky from the boat and only had 3 species of parrots. Mealy Parrots and dusky-headed parakeets were very common on the river salt lick. Blue-headed parrots were seen but did not come down to the lick.
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| Parrot Salt Lick |
The one in the park had a really nice hide that you could sit in eat
lunch and wait for the birds to show up. When they arrived it was
deafening! The macaws come down to the ground first and the smaller
parrots follow very loudly and cautiously. They almost looked like they
were chasing each other off branches encouraging others to go ahead of
them.
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| Scarlet Macaw |
Yasuni is also quite good for manakins, trogons and anoles. I wish I could have had a chance to go there at night!
The sandbar island we visited on the way back had some very interesting birds that are unique to that habitat. They like the shrubby/tall forbs/wide leaved grassed that grow on sandy soils. This included chestnut-bellied seedeaters, grey-breasted crake, roseatte spoonbills and oriole blackbirds.
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| Chestnut-bellied Seedeater |
