Thursday 11 October 2018

Mount Koya (Koyasan)

We got to Koyasan by a combination of train cable car and bus.The train ride through the mountains is quite lovely and with the clouds and mist rolling through the mountains it was very picturesque.
Train ride to Koyasan
Train ride to Koyasan
 It took a while but we finally arrived at the temple we were staying at. Shojoshinin (清浄心院) is on the far end of town from the station but is very close to the graveyard in town.
Shojoshinin (清浄心院)
Rooms in the temple are traditional Japanese rooms with a small tea area and an area on the tatami for beds. The rooms are cold but they give you four comforters to stay warm at night.
Shojoshinin (清浄心院)
 Walking around the temple grounds on the covered walkways you can see little gardens and alcoves.
Shojoshinin (清浄心院)
Shojoshinin (清浄心院)
Shojoshinin (清浄心院)
 In the morning you go to a prayer room at 6am for the morning prayer that lasts an hour before breakfast at 7am. The room is very cold and I was shivering during the entire hour long prayer but it was very interesting. Nothing was said in Japanese and there was no English explanation for anything.
Shojoshinin (清浄心院)
Shojoshinin (清浄心院)
 The alter in the prayer room is very beautiful and after the prayer you can walk around it at look at everything.
Shojoshinin (清浄心院)
Shojoshinin (清浄心院)
Dinner is held at 5pm and breakfast is held in a tatami room where they set up screens between groups and food is served on small tray tables at 7am.
Shojoshinin (清浄心院)
Shojoshinin (清浄心院)

Shojoshinin (清浄心院)
Shojoshinin (清浄心院)
Shojoshinin (清浄心院)

There are a lot of temples in Koyasan that you walk though along the side of the road. Karukayado (苅萱堂) is just on the side of the road with so many flags on the outside.
Karukayado (苅萱堂)
  Temples and tori gate paths were found all along the road giving this small town its character.

Jofukuin (成福院) was one of the most noticeable temple and had a small museum section in the pagoda. There was a shrine and an underground section where you walk int he dark with shrines lit up underground. Display cases held religious or historic items from wars.
Jofukuin (成福院)
Jofukuin (成福院)
Jofukuin (成福院)
Jofukuin (成福院)
Jofukuin (成福院)
 Among the many souvenir shops in town that sold fancy cookies, prayer beads, calligraphy equipment and regular souvenirs, there was a store in town that was very Miyazaki themed with souvenirs from all of the movies.
 Kongobuji (金剛峯寺) was one of the larger temples in town with a large open area in front of the temple.
Kongobuji (金剛峯寺)

Kongobuji (金剛峯寺)
Kongobuji (金剛峯寺)

Kongobuji (金剛峯寺)

Kongobuji (金剛峯寺)
Kongobuji (金剛峯寺)
Kongobuji (金剛峯寺)
Kongobuji (金剛峯寺)
 Rokujino kane (高野山金剛峯寺 六時の鐘) is a large bell  in town.
Rokujino kane (高野山金剛峯寺 六時の鐘)
Danjō-garan (壇上伽藍), or Garan, was one of the first complexes built by Kobo Daishi in Koyasan. It has been rebuilt a few times after being destroyed by fire. The 20 temple buildings surround the main large pagoda. A large red gate sits at the main entrance to the temple. Smaller pagodas are scattered around the temple grounds.
Danjō-garan (壇上伽藍)
Danjō-garan (壇上伽藍)
 The pagoda is really tall and you can enter it and walk around the statue in the center. Nearby a famous tree is gated off. This tree is said to be the reason why the founder chose this location to start the temple.

Danjō-garan (壇上伽藍)
Danjō-garan (壇上伽藍)
Danjō-garan (壇上伽藍)

Danjō-garan (壇上伽藍)
 I small pagoda had a wheel you could turn. I am not really sure the point of spinning the wheel but I think you are supposed to make a wish and spin it all the way around.
Danjō-garan (壇上伽藍)

Danjō-garan (壇上伽藍)
Danjō-garan (壇上伽藍)

Danjō-garan (壇上伽藍)

Danjō-garan (壇上伽藍)
The temple pagoda and gate are lit up at night and there are very few people around so it is very quiet and serene. Some flying squirrels were calling from the large trees by the temple.
Danjō-garan (壇上伽藍)
Danjō-garan (壇上伽藍)
 The gate has four statues, one at each corner depicting very different personalities including a warrior and a scholar.
Danjō-garan (壇上伽藍)
Danjō-garan (壇上伽藍)
Danjō-garan (壇上伽藍)
Danjō-garan (壇上伽藍)
  Koyasan Okunoin Omotesando Ichinohashi (高野山 奥の院 表参道 一の橋) is the large graveyard with ancient graves in it. The rainy misty night gave it an erie appearance as I walked to the shrine at the end of the graveyard train with a million lanterns. 
Koyasan Okunoin Omotesando Ichinohashi (高野山 奥の院 表参道 一の橋)
Koyasan Okunoin Omotesando Ichinohashi (高野山 奥の院 表参道 一の橋)

 Graves and gates are set amongst the trees and shaded by the thick canopy overhead. Small paths extend from the main train to take you to other sections of the graveyard.
Koyasan Okunoin Omotesando Ichinohashi (高野山 奥の院 表参道 一の橋)

Koyasan Okunoin Omotesando Ichinohashi (高野山 奥の院 表参道 一の橋)
 If you look inside the well inside the graveyard and do not see your reflection, it is fabled that you will die within three years.
Koyasan Okunoin Omotesando Ichinohashi (高野山 奥の院 表参道 一の橋)
Koyasan Okunoin Omotesando Ichinohashi (高野山 奥の院 表参道 一の橋)
Koyasan Okunoin Omotesando Ichinohashi (高野山 奥の院 表参道 一の橋)
 At the temple there are many Buddhist figures by the river.
Koyasan Okunoin Omotesando Ichinohashi (高野山 奥の院 表参道 一の橋)
Koyasan Okunoin Omotesando Ichinohashi (高野山 奥の院 表参道 一の橋)
Koyasan Okunoin Omotesando Ichinohashi (高野山 奥の院 表参道 一の橋)
 The fall colours were just starting and the large forest had some open areas around the buildings with Japanese Maples turning red and orange.
Koyasan Okunoin Omotesando Ichinohashi (高野山 奥の院 表参道 一の橋)
Koyasan Okunoin Omotesando Ichinohashi (高野山 奥の院 表参道 一の橋)
Koyasan Okunoin Omotesando Ichinohashi (高野山 奥の院 表参道 一の橋)

They give night tours of the graveyard and you can here flying squirrels high up in the trees and I am sure if you are lucky and in the right season owls would be calling in this ancient forest.  You can also just walk the graveyard for free at night like I did to avoid being one of the 30 some people in the tour. 
Koyasan Okunoin Omotesando Ichinohashi (高野山 奥の院 表参道 一の橋)
 Hiding under the roots of a huge tree a Japanese toad was actually keeping dry from the wet cold rain.
Japanese Toad
Japanese Toad
Koyasan Okunoin Omotesando Ichinohashi (高野山 奥の院 表参道 一の橋)
The huge Daimon Gate (金剛峯寺大門) is on the far side of town from the temple we stayed at. I visited it at night in the fog when it was very difficult to see it well. Nearby the gate is a trail with tori gates up the hill. Unfortunately the typhoon damage from weeks ago still caused this trail to be closed.
Daimon Gate (金剛峯寺大門)
Daimon Gate (金剛峯寺大門)
Hiking from Manizan (摩尼山) to Yoryusan (楊柳山) is a lovely day hike. You walk along a dirt trail to two mountain peaks. The peaks don't have a view but are marked with small shrines. The forest is lush green and a mix of evergreens and deciduous trees. 
Hiking from Manizan (摩尼山) to Yoryusan (楊柳山)
Not much was blooming  except for very few plants and some mushrooms littered the under-story on the edge of the path.

Hiking from Manizan (摩尼山) to Yoryusan (楊柳山)

Hiking from Manizan (摩尼山) to Yoryusan (楊柳山)

Hiking from Manizan (摩尼山) to Yoryusan (楊柳山)
 The shrines on the top on the mountain are really small.
Hiking from Manizan (摩尼山) to Yoryusan (楊柳山)
 Some sections of the forest are definitely planted Japanese cedar with all trees of the same size.
Hiking from Manizan (摩尼山) to Yoryusan (楊柳山)
Hiking from Manizan (摩尼山) to Yoryusan (楊柳山)
 Tokugawa Clan Mausoleum (徳川家霊台) is two small wood buildings and are heavily decorated. The Tokugawa Mausoleum (徳川家霊台, Tokugawa-ke Reidai) on Koyasan was built in 1643 by the third Tokugawa shogun Iemitsu in order for his family to have a mausoleum close to Kobo Daishi's mausoleum. The mausoleum's two identical buildings took twenty years to be completed and were built in the extravagant style of the early Edo Period with graceful sloping roofs, rich ornamentation, intricate carvings, lacquer and gold leaf. The two buildings stand side by side. The one on the right enshrines Ieyasu and the one on the left Hidetada. There is a small fee to enter but you don't really see much. 
 Tokugawa Clan Mausoleum (徳川家霊台)
 Tokugawa Clan Mausoleum (徳川家霊台)
 There were intricate carvings all over the buildings.
 Tokugawa Clan Mausoleum (徳川家霊台)
 Tokugawa Clan Mausoleum (徳川家霊台)
 Tokugawa Clan Mausoleum (徳川家霊台)
 Tokugawa Clan Mausoleum (徳川家霊台)
 I wanted to do the hike down to Daimon Gate but it was still closed from typhoon damage.

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