Friday 11 January 2019

The Piedras River and Casa Kankui in El Zaino, Colombia

It was a long drive from El Dorado to El Zaino (about 5 minutes drive from Tayrona National Park) and walking into the hostel didn't really fit what I had expected. I knew it was along the highway but I expected the property to be a bit set back but this is ON the highway. The pool view is the highway and the highways views the pool.
Kankui Hostal
BUT all of that first impression drastically improved after settling in and over the course of the stay. The breakfast is included and is fantastic with fresh fruit, juice, scrambled eggs and arepas. Our room was river view and really was ON the river with only about 1 m of sand in between. There was air conditioning and TV. We had our own private balcony area with a hammock and chairs.
Piedras River at Kankui Hostal
Piedras River at Kankui Hostal
The river was lovely, crystal clear and cool (but not very deep in dry season) with a rock/sand bottom that was easy to walk in. Stretching my legs after the long drive I walked just a short distance into the river and was surrounded by birds! Hummingbirds, tanagers warblers!! All flitting around these large mimosa shrubs blooming on a sand flat in the river.
Streaked Flycatcher
Blue-gray Tanagers
I walked the river many times in the three days we spent there and I saw many birds including:
Ruddy Ground-dove
Spotted Sandpiper
Crested Caracara
Yellow-headed Caracara
Yellow-headed Caracara
Pale-bellied Hermit
Steely-vented Hummingbird
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird
Snowy Egret
Black Vulture
Turkey Vulture
Ringed Kingfisher
Amazon Kingfisher
Green Kingfisher
Green Kingfisher Male
Green Kingfisher Male
Green Kingfisher Female
Green Kingfisher Female
Red-crowned Woodpecker
Red-crowned Woodpecker
Orange-chinned Parakeet
Blue-headed Parrot
Blue-headed Parrot
Yellow-bellied Elaenia
Yellow-bellied Elaenia
Social Flycatcher
Summer Tanager
Summer Tanager
Tropical Kingbird 
Tropical Kingbird
Southern Rough-winged Swallow
Southern Rough-winged Swallow
Bicoloured Wren
House Wren
Long-billed Gnatwren
Pale-breasted Thrush
Baltimore Oriole
Orange-crowned Oriole
Orange-crowned Oriole
Long-tailed Grackle
Blue-gray Tanager
Crimson-backed Tanager
Crimson-backed Tanager
Palm Tanager
Palm Tanager
Bananaquit
Northern Waterthrush
Yellow Warbler
Prothonotary Warbler
Grayish Saltator
Gray Seedeater

At night the river was loud with Giant Toads and fishing spiders but surprisingly little else. I did surprise an armadillo one night and it very slowly sauntered off in front of me like an old grump.
Giant Toad (Rhinella horribilis)
The highway doesn't have much around it here and the best places to eat are literally across the street at Chayrama or Yuluka EcoHostal. The food and drinks at both are lovely but I am partial to the ecohostal because of the wildlife. The restaurant is set higher up so you have a nice view of the trees and can bird watch while you eat or if you go for a quick walk around you see frogs, skinks and geckos on the property.
Yuluka EcoHostal
Yuluka EcoHostal
Blue-gray Tanager
Cimson-backed Tanager

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